09 February, 2002

Gentle fiddling or fast forward

 
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The cordon gets its characteristic shape when most branches of last year are removed.

All vines of Champagne are manually pruned each winter. It is a quiet work of patience, and therefore very suitable for persons, who likes this kind of task. And - according to a vineyard worker here - it is easy to recognize the work of a woman from the work of a man. The female touch is simply more thoroughly, more tidy than that of a man - sorry Alain, sorry Lars - but this is what she says.

An entertaining observation. But when that is said, the objective is also to finish, and not - like myself - to think and think and think yet once again, before you decide where to use your secateur. If you work this way, you will only reach 100 meters further in one day, and this way the winter will be way to short for you to finish on time. But your work will be careful of course, how could it not be?

There are many possibilities when you prune. Despite the strict rules for grapes destined for champagne, there are both big roads, small roads and dirt roads, that will all take you to Rome. But more experience makes it easier to make the good choice faster.

The useful pruning
There are several reasons why we spend so much time pruning.

  • The plant grows bigger every year. When you remove unnecessary branches, you prevent the vines from working themselves to death, having to feed more and more and longer and longer branches.

  • The grapes grow on one-year old branches. Of these you are allowed a certain number. You are not interested in many grapes, just a little bit more than the number you expect to sell at the harvest.

  • When you achieve the right balance between the hard, old tree and a suitable number of new shoots with leaves, you normally grow better grapes. This suitable balance depends on the micro conditions in the plot.

  • The tractors pass more easily trough tidy rows, which makes them break less branches.

     
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    This plant has several cordons, only one will survive the pruning.

    We grow Meunier-vines pruned in the Vallée de la Marne-style in one plot. In the other plot - the one with the miserable cordons - there is still a lot of work left.

    Several models
    A vine kan be pruned in several different ways, that depend on parameters like tradition, the weather and what is decided in the AOC-rules.

    In Champagne the vines are pruned rather low and planted dense. In other areas with vines, the vines are taller, the rows planted with a bigger distance between them and so on. The systems are adjusted to the climatic and geological conditions in your area and - very locally - in your plot.

    The most common pruning-systems in Champagne are the Chablis and the Cordon. We use the latter in one plot and the Vallée de la Marne in another, the Vallée de la Marne resembles a faster way of doing a Cordon.

     
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    This version of Chablis has three arms, each of far ends of the branches will grow grapes.
     
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    Cordon, where the tiny branches on the long and old arm (cordon) and the far end will grow grapes.

    At times I must pinch my own arm once or even twice to understand that pruning of champagne vines is now one of my weekly tasks during a day in say January or February.

    It is only three years ago, that I walked with my stroller on dirt roads between the vines wondering what all these people in dark green coats were doing outside all day long. I am one of them now.

    The chariot used by many
    Alain has always bent over his vines, when he prunes. My bag does not put up with such a treatment. I use the little chariot, that enables me to sit down, when I prune. This slows down my speed, but it enables me to work with other things when I don't prune, so it is practical after all. Instead, my body is just tired, but tired in the quite pleasant way you reach after physical work outside.

    Thus I use the chariot, and so does many others. If you see a dirty car in Verzy around lunchtime, you have an almost 100 percent certitude to see one of these chariots in the boot. There is even a guy who travels with it on his lap when he drives back and forth between his house and vines on a small moped.

     
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    I work myself upwards on my little chariot.

    The pruning is finished just about at the same time as winter. In France officially at vernal equinox March 21st. The few surviving branches will be attached to the lowest thread of the wires at a height of just 50 or 60 centimetres with little pieces of wires surrounded by raffia.

    Now, which sex has more bindings? My mouth is shut... It is no competition after all.

    After the attachment of the branches the active cycle of the vines is not far.

    På dansk

    Copyright: The copyright for text and photos at bobler.blogspot.com belongs to Solveig Tange. You may use my articles, photos or parts of them for non-commercial use and if I am credited as the author. Feel free to link to this site but not in your own frameset please.

  • 08 February, 2002

    Warming on the agenda

    Heat and how it influences the cycle of the vine and the content of the grapes. Important or? The columns of French media have seemed to deal with anything but these matters. Especially local and profesionnal media, despite these are closer to the winegrowing business than the national collegues.

    But that is currently changing. Articles, debates in the organisations, names of researchers that work with these subjects pop up all the time these days. Maybe the recent clima summit in Paris has had an effect, maybe time is maturing, maybe only now researchers have new knowledge to share.

    Winegrowing in the 22nd century
    One of the researchers, who has worked with the effects of the warming on the cultivations of vines in France, is Iñaki Garcia de Cortazar Atauri. At the public French institution of agricultural research - the INRA - he has worked on the expected consequences of the warming for the winegrowing in France in the years 2079-2099.

    His most important conclusions according to La Journée Vinicole are:

  • The key phases of the vine will change (unfolding, flowering, development of berries).
  • The biomass (the green part of the plant, that is leaves, stems) will grow.
  • The water stress at the end of the cycle will grow.
  • The weather conditions in the period from maturation to harvest will change significantly.

    The resultats will be presented in the city of Beaune on February 19th at a conference, organised by BIVB, the Burgundy equivalent of the CIVC of Champagne.

    Grand Nord and CO2-udledning
    The young winegrowers of Champagnes have also put the heating on their program next week. They have invited the adventurer Nicolas Vanier, in France very known for the film "Le Dernier Trappeur" to speak about sustainable development.

    And it would be unfair not to add that also the CIVC responsible in environmental questions, Arnaud Descotes, will be there to present the work of his department. They have developped a method to measure the discharges of CO2 with the aim to reduce it 30 percent in 10 years.

    På dansk

    Copyright: The copyright for text and photos at bobler.blogspot.com belongs to Solveig Tange. You may use my articles, photos or parts of them for non-commercial use and if I am credited as the author. Feel free to link to this site but not in your own frameset please.

  • A glimpse from Moëts prestige caves

    The women's glossy Madame Figaro has made a visit of the prestige caves of Moët & Chandon under the Avenue de Champagne in Épernay.

    The photos series is called diaporama. The link is placed in the small blue arrow in the upper left corner.

    Some years ago I visited the guided tour of Moët and I don't remember being even close to something that looked like this.

    07 February, 2002

    And the winner wine blog is...

    Three winners have been announced in the contest of best wineblogs in connection with the Salon des Vins de Loire earlier this week. I am just mentioning it... Some of you may remember that I - not that many days ago - babbled about my envy to participate in the competition too.

    It turned out to be not that easy to find out how to enroll your blog. At the time I got the news about it in the newsletter La Vinicole.com one and a half weeks before the exibition in the city of Angers the list of participants was already closed. I did wonder whether it ever was open, I must admit.

    But, I will leave it there. The rowan berries out of your reach have always been sour. Journalists with talents of writing - or let's just call it education in writing - were not allowed as participants anyway.

    And so, the winner bloggers are:

  • Category French winegrower: Sauvat (Auvergne)
  • Category French wineblog: blog d'Olif
  • Category foreign language wineblog: Vinography

    I just realized, there is another list - yes, sir - where you, dear readers, can vote for my blog, if you feel like it. Just follow this link - and vote me all the way to the top already today.

    På dansk

    Copyright: The copyright for text and photos at bobler.blogspot.com belongs to Solveig Tange. You may use my articles, photos or parts of them for non-commercial use and if I am credited as the author. Feel free to link to this site but not in your own frameset please.

  • 06 February, 2002

    Grapes in 10 years

     
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    Chardonnay-grapes from the harvest of records in 2004.

    To grow grapes is an occupation that demands an ability to stay cool. I have said it before. But facts often explains much more frankly than words, so here goes.

    The numbers below give an overview of the years 1996-2005. They were published in the december 2006 edition of the magazine Le Vigneron Champenois.

    10 years with the grapes
    The overview contains the dates for débourrement, full flowering and grapeharvest for the three varieties of grapes, that are the far most common ones in Champagne: Chardonnay (green), Pinot Noir (blue) og Meunier (blue).

    In those 10 years the vines have generally unfolded around April 15th, they flowered around June 15th, and the grapeharvest began around September 18th. To find bigger variations - such as the days where the grapeharvest took place in October - you need older dates than those of 1996. The table shows the earliest and the latest date for unfolding, flowering and harvest:
    Grapedates
    ChardonnayPinot NoirMeunier
    29.03.03-18.04.9605.04.97-21.04.9608.04.03-23.04.96
    07.06.03-19.06.0107.06.03-21.06.0108.06.03-22.06.96+01
    25.08.03-27.09.0425.08.03-27.09.0425.08.03-25.09.01+04

    If you study the dates a bit more, especially 2003 differs from the other years. And 2003 was a year, that had quite a lot of unpleasantness to offer.

    This year the winter was cold in Champagne. It got warmer, even pleasantly mild already from mid February. The warmth made the vines develop early, and when the spring frost arrived in the end of April the destructions were rather extensive. Alain brought these bad news on my very last work day in Copenhagen.

    Those days I didn't get the seriousness of the message. I have understood more since. I believe, that the numbers of Le Vigneron Champenois still today make quite an impression:

  • The possible yield of 13.000 hectares of vines were completely destroyed in this one night of frost.
  • A total of 29.000 hectares were touched by the frost.
  • A number that comes very close to the entire area with vines of Champagne, which is around 30.000 hectares.

    Reservewines and heatwave
    The individuel reserve of wines, that winegrowers are authorized to store here in Champagne, has been agreed excactly to prepare themselves for this kind of very expensive surprises, that come with special weather some years.

    It will be interesting to follow the development these next years. Will there be more warm winters like this one? How will it affect the unfolding of the vines? Will there be even more problems with frost in spring than before caused by an early unfoldning? Will the spring frost be more rare as the weather warms? We shall see.

    The frost was not the last meteological accident of 2003. Since followed a very warm summer, that cost thousands of old French people their lives. The heatwave also made the grapes mature so fast, that the grapeharvest had to begin with only a few days notice. We were on holidays and only made it for the last day.

    The determinating factor is, that the content of sugar exceeds a certain limit. Shortly after the grapes must be harvested, otherwise it is hard to keep the common alcohol level of a champagne of 12,5 percent. The heat wave also made the important acidity of the grapes of vintage 2003 unusually low.

    The very small amount of grapes of 2003 (7.500 kilos per hectare) wes replaced by another extraordinary year in 2004, where the vines carried legendary 23.000 kilos per hectare. Probably the plants compensated for the low yield the year before.

    Unusual vintage
    The warm summer of 2003 was followed by an autumn, that was warm enough to mature more - even though much less - grapes. Quite extraordinary they were harvested in mid October because of the big losses of spring.

    This means that a champagne from the year 2003 consists of a rarely seen mix of wines, made of grapes from two harvests, and on top of that the reserve wines, that were autorized for the assemblage. A very unusual cocktail, and many professionals - according to Le Vigneron Champenois - will use the occasion to introduce vintage champagnes. It it also a vintage, expected with excitement, because it is simply expected to be rather different.

    The numbers from Le Vigneron Champenois are collected by the technical department of the CIVC.

    På dansk

    Copyright: The copyright for text and photos at bobler.blogspot.com belongs to Solveig Tange. You may use my articles, photos or parts of them for non-commercial use and if I am credited as the author. Feel free to link to this site but not in your own frameset please.

  • Big sales of 2006

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    Assembly line: Champagnebottles are dressed with the cork, capsule and muselet.

    Now we know. The sale of champagnes in 2006 has been settled. As expected it was big.

    However, 321,6 million bottles of champagne were dispatched last year, compared to 307,5 million bottles in 2005. A growth of 4,6 percent or 14,1 million more bottles in 2006 than in 2005. Says the CIVC (Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Champagne).

    Even it is not enough bottles to pass the sales of the Millenium, this record does not really count here, since 50-60 million of the 2000-bottles were only drunk the following year with a decrease in sales of a similar size.

    Foreign markets grow
    The French market still gulp down more than half of the total bubbly production of Champagne (56 percent in 2006, 58 percent in 2005). But the tendency is, that the main growth takes place outside France.

  • France: growth of 1,5 percent
  • EU: growth of 4,4 percent
  • Other countries: growth of 16 percent

    Champagnehouses and cooperatives have had the biggest growth (respectively 5,09 percent and 6,2 percent), whilst winegrowers have sold 2,6 percent more bottles in 2006 than the year before.

    There is not even a dark shade of winecrisis in Champagne these days.

    På dansk

    Copyright: The copyright for text and photos at bobler.blogspot.com belongs to Solveig Tange. You may use my articles, photos or parts of them for non-commercial use and if I am credited as the author. Feel free to link to this site but not in your own frameset please.

  • 04 February, 2002

    Nobel beer

    Once upon a time I participated in a course with four other winegrower's wifes. The target was to learn to sell champagne in English. Well, I was supposed to do it in French, since English was not really my problem. During one of those days our teacher gushed over how great champagne is. She's right about that. But you do limit your own palate if you always stick to the same old stuff.

    Which is why I happily announced that I do like champagne, but... not in my wildest dreams would it ever occur to me not to enjoy a good beer as well. The speechlessness that followed was absolutely profound. My remark was left to die it's own miserable death in utmost silence.

    Beer and luxury is such a wild combination, that a story about a new beer from Carlsberg was one of the conservative and faithful-to-the-president-newpaper Le Figaros topstories in the pink part.

    It is also the most expensive beer in the world, says Carlsberg. 269 euros per bottle and 600 bottles all in all. The rarity - I guess - is the engine, expected to push the sale. Still, a bit expensive, isn't it. I usually go for something around two-three euroes per bottle, and that's not even cheap...

    I could easily name a dozen or more champagnes, that are cheaper, and that I am more eager to test, but chacun son goût as they say in France. Taste is individual.

    Anway, if you always stick to the same topseller, say Moët& Chandon, you may also not get very close to an understanding of, what champagne may also be. A bit like what happens if you always opt for the same beer.

    Warming is a reality

     
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    Our vineyard in Loisy-en-Brie in the bright sunshine this weekend. Warming or not, the wind was freezing cold.

    I have just returned home from weekend work in one of our small vineyards in Champagne to read that I can now be less careful with the linguistic way I have been treating the notion of global warmning so far.

    The international climate summit in Paris ended friday. One statement of the network of researchers from countries all over the world - Intergovernment Panel on Climate Change - is, that there is only very little reason to believe that the global climate changes of the last 50 years could be natural. It is much more likely, that they are manmade, and the big sinner is the burning of fossil fuels. (Read more here.)

    Skip the reservations
    What is good enough for these experts within any reasonable probability is certainly good enough for me to skip the linguistic reservations I have had when describing weather anomalities until now. It simply seems that normal weather is no more what it used to be.

     
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    A ladybird has dared to leave its crack in the wood to sunbathe.

    I don't know if you should categorize the ladybirds, that spent their sunday afternoon sunbathing on the stems of the vines as an anomality. I guess not though.

    The small insects in their black-spotted red dresses hibernate in the cracks of the wood of the vines, and they usually emerge in early spring. In Denmark around the month of March. Since nature wakes up one month before in this region, it seems not completely out of step to meet them in February in Champagne.

    Anyway, they'd better stay close to their cracks anyway. Today the sun may warm enough to give nice red chins after just an hour's work. But that does not imply that it is neither summer nor spring here. The wind blew icy and cold air all weekend, so we have worn both woollen bonnets and socks. And the temperature in the fields never passed six-seven degrees Celsius despite the pretty sunshine.

     
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    Bias cut, but is it too green to be quite normal?

    Green bias cuts
    The tears - les pleurs - the sap, that literally run down the newly pruned branches, we have not seen.

    Alain still thinks, that the surfaces of the cuts are rather green. That the sap is not as completely gone, as it should and as it is normally. I don't have the necessary experience to estimate if it is greener than usual. But that the bias surfaces are juicy green rather than more yellow and dry is obvious.

    Again, if this green colour is connected with the unusually warm months we have had the last quarter or not, I also don't feel qualified to have my say about.

    But the warming that researchers now consider manmade as a fact, will continue this way the next hundreds of years, they foresee.

    På dansk

    Copyright: The copyright for text and photos at bobler.blogspot.com belongs to Solveig Tange. You may use my articles, photos or parts of them for non-commercial use and if I am credited as the author. Feel free to link to this site but not in your own frameset please.

    Read more perspectives at CNN.com, at International Herald Tribune or at the BBC.

    02 February, 2002

    Keep the slim line

     
    Champagne is at its best in tall glasses. They preserve the bubbles better, and the train de bulles is presented in a much more handsome way.
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    TGIF. ALmost weekend. Some must work, others are off. Some already knows, they will have fun. Others simply enjoy what they do.

    In France many of the women care a great deal about, what they eat and drink. The latter less, since they generally speaking don't drink much (alcohol). To stay slim is important for many, and it is not unusual to see ladies in their late fifties, who still have legs, worth presenting even in short skirts. Well, this - of course - you don't get for free.

    The strategies vary. Apart from slimming and exercising the last and popular tool is tough-to-the-bone foodcontrol: Very small portions, light-products, choice - if I eat this cheese, I will skip those two. And then of course a watchful eye on the glasses that after all will be drunk. Meet an expert here or try the journalistic version from the Guardian

    • 12 cl of champagne: 80 kcal
    • 10 cl of Kir Royal: 105 kcal (champagne plus crème de cassis)
    • 10 cl of sweet whitewine: 150 kcal (like Sauternes)
    • 6 cl of whisky: 140 kcal
    • 15 cl of Bloody Mary: 200 kcal
    Facts: Dr Jean-Michel Lecerf, l'Institut Pasteur in Lille. Published in the most red Women's Magazine in France, the Femme Actuelle.

    Personally I have never counted calories this way. My glasses show a common tendency of occuring on specific but not that many days, which means that I generally don't feel like eating and drinking a lot the next day. Apart from tea. Answer: Balance. For the part that includes the calories anyway.

    This weekend our wildest excess will be a fast visit before dinner at some friends in the Côte des Blancs. How reassuring, that the aperitifs in this region are so nicely ranked on the list above. TGIF? Thank God It's Friday's. Cheers, have a nice weekend.

    På dansk

    Copyright: The copyright for text and photos at bobler.blogspot.com belongs to Solveig Tange. You may use my articles, photos or parts of them for non-commercial use and if I am credited as the author. Feel free to link to this site but not in your own frameset please.

    01 February, 2002

    The French belly empties

    An elderly gentleman with a dark beret on one side of his head, baguette under the arm and supported by a belly with a volume big enough to contain solid food and at least those three bottles of wine he gulps down in a day. There are not many such grandfathers left in today's France but they are remembered with veneration.

    Now on the decline more than ever. The French consumption of wine has done nothing but descending since 2001, and it is expected to be overtaken by that of the Americans and italians during the next five years. Says an analysis made on behalf of the big exhibition Vinexpo, that takes place in Bordeaux in June 17th-21st.

    In Champagne the French share of the cake decreases as well. It used to be 60 percent of the entire consumption, today it is down to a share of 50 percent. The growing sales are for exports mainly.

    Alcohol and publicity limits
    It is the Evin-law (Wiki) from 1991 that has slowed down the consumption of wine, says French newsagency AFP. The law has put limits to how you can advertize for alcohol. For instance it is obligatory to tell - in big letters - about the health risks you run when consuming alcohol. Check it here and here.

    The alcohol limit has its part to play as well. It is and was 0,5 but with the Evin-law the French police began to enforce it as well, and that has made the sales of wines consumed at lunchtime decrease drastically. Even the customers are allowed to bring the bottle with leftovers. Doggybags never got really big in Europe, I guess.

    With these gloomy perspectives the dear grandpére can end up becoming an even more rare thus more mythical character in the popular part of the French Parnassus.

    På dansk

    Copyright: The copyright for text and photos at bobler.blogspot.com belongs to Solveig Tange. You may use my articles, photos or parts of them for non-commercial use and if I am credited as the author. Feel free to link to this site but not in your own frameset please.

    Read the story at Expatica.com (English) or at Agrisalon.com (French).
    Examination of the Evin-law made by two French doctors (in English) here and 10 years conlusion by the French Ministry of Health here.